Published: Jan 1, 1970 · Watch on YouTube →
How do you set up your new clutch kit and why doesn't it work? Also sharing is caring!!!
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Diesel engine clutch setup problems are responsible for more failed builds and frustrated owners than almost any other single component. Today we cover the two main clutch release mechanisms, how to set them up correctly and why vendors who sell clutch kits without proper support are failing their customers.
The SACHS 765 is an excellent pressure plate used extensively in high performance builds. However it has two characteristics that create problems in certain applications.
First it is physically very tall. When combined with a DMR dual mass replacement flywheel – which is already thick to accommodate the pilot bearing for short input shaft gearboxes – the total stack height inside the bellhousing becomes significant. Space is at a premium and clearances become tight.
Second the SACHS 765 has a very long throw. The clutch release bearing must travel further than most stock setups provide. This is the root cause of most clutch problems reported in online communities.
The correct approach is matching pressure plate height to flywheel thickness. Thicker flywheel requires a thinner pressure plate. Thinner flywheel can accommodate a taller pressure plate. This is not complicated logic but it requires knowing both dimensions before selecting components.
BMW style arm and slave cylinder
An arm sits inside the bellhousing with three key points: a fixed pivot point at one end, the clutch release bearing in the middle and the slave cylinder acting on the other end. When the slave cylinder extends the arm pivots and the release bearing pushes the pressure plate springs inward releasing the clutch.
Correct geometry is essential. The arm must start at approximately the halfway position of its travel arc. If the arm starts at an extreme angle the mechanical advantage is poor and the clutch either will not release fully or requires excessive pedal force. Starting midway means the arm travels from halfway down to halfway up – maintaining reasonable mechanical advantage throughout the movement.
Hydraulic throwout bearing
A hydraulic unit mounts inside the bellhousing on four bolts. A hydraulic line connects directly from the master cylinder. When the clutch pedal is pressed the entire bearing unit moves forward in a straight line – no arm, no pivot, no geometry concerns.
This eliminates the geometry problem entirely. The only adjustment is spacing the unit correctly using washers behind the mounting bolts until the engagement point feels correct.
Advantages: simpler setup, no geometry to calculate, works correctly with a wide range of flywheel and pressure plate combinations.
Disadvantages: if the unit fails the gearbox must come out. The slave cylinder style mounts externally with two bolts and can be replaced without removing the gearbox.
If the back of the bearing is not sealed fabricate a small backplate that bolts down. Not complicated and it solves the issue cleanly.
This is the single most useful tip for anyone setting up a clutch for the first time. Find a large hole saw matching a rubber plug you have available. Drill through the bellhousing in a position where you can see the clutch arm and release bearing.
With the hole drilled you can watch exactly what happens when a friend presses the clutch pedal. You see the arm travel, you see the release bearing contact, you see whether it is releasing fully. Setting up the geometry with visual confirmation takes ten minutes. Setting it up blind takes hours and involves repeated gearbox removal.
When the setup is correct fit the rubber plug. The hole is hidden, the gearbox is sealed and you have a permanent inspection port for future reference.
If the clutch is not releasing the most common cause is insufficient slave cylinder throw. The 765 pressure plate requires more throw than most stock slave cylinder setups provide.
Measure how far the slave cylinder extends during a full clutch pedal press. Measure how far the release bearing needs to travel to fully disengage the clutch. If the slave cylinder travel is insufficient the arm rod needs extending.
Start with 20mm of extension – fabricate or source a longer pushrod end. Test in the garage before driving. Press the clutch pedal and feel for any unusual resistance. If resistance feels abnormal stop and reduce the extension slightly. Work progressively until the clutch releases cleanly with normal pedal feel.
If geometry adjustment is needed beyond slave cylinder throw the fixed pivot point is usually threaded. Remove it, add two washers beneath it and reinstall. This raises the pivot point and changes the arm geometry.
For extreme applications where the required adjustment exceeds what washers can provide drill through the bellhousing, tap the correct thread size and fit a bolt from outside with a locking nut. This gives full external adjustability – move the pivot point in and out as needed and lock with the nut. Complete freedom to set perfect geometry.
If vendors won't help their customers someone has to make the video. See you another day. Bye!
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