Published: Jan 1, 1970 · Watch on YouTube →
How to time your om601, om602, om603, om604, om605, om606 inline injection pump. What to think about and not. What's important and what's not.
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OM606 injection pump timing is one of those topics where the internet makes it seem more critical than the engine actually experiences – but getting it right still matters for how the engine performs on your terms. Today we cover the correct process for setting timing, three methods for finding the right stroke and the critical mistake that leaves most pumps at the wrong timing after installation.
The indirect injection diesel engines in the OM60x family are remarkably tolerant of timing variation. Set the pump at 12 degrees as specified. End up at 7 or 17 due to installation error. The engine fires up, runs normally and produces power. A five degree error in either direction barely registers.
Too retarded – slight sluggishness. Too advanced – slight knock at idle. Neither is catastrophic. The engine does not care the way the Facebook forums suggest it does.
What timing does affect is how the engine feels and sounds to you. Advanced timing produces a harder idle sound. Retarded timing feels softer and less responsive. For most builders the difference between 10 and 14 degrees is primarily about personal preference rather than measurable power difference.
The exception is extreme cases. 180 degrees out – on the wrong stroke entirely – is a genuine problem. The engine either will not start or runs very badly. Everything within a reasonable range around the specified setting works.
A four stroke engine completes one full cycle in 720 degrees – two full crankshaft revolutions. This means the crank passes through zero and top dead centre twice per cycle. Arriving at 12 degrees on the crank marker tells you nothing about which stroke you are on without additional confirmation.
Method one – oil cap and intake cam sprocket
Remove the oil filler cap. Look inside. The intake camshaft sprocket is visible. As you rotate the engine clockwise the sprocket rotates anticlockwise. There is a drill mark on the outer edge of the sprocket teeth – easily visible as you rotate. When this mark passes through your field of view you are approaching the correct stroke. Continue rotating to your timing mark on the crank. If the mark has passed through your view before you reach the timing position you are on the correct stroke.
Method two – pump timing hole
Remove the timing plug from the side of the pump. With a mirror and a helper rotating the engine you can see the lock notch inside the pump. When the lock notch is visible and centred in the hole you are at zero degrees on the correct stroke. Continue from there to your target timing position.
Method three – cam cap markings
Remove the valve cover and the cam caps. The cam cap markings and cam lobe alignment dots confirm TDC on the compression stroke. This method was covered in detail in the camshaft pinning video. Once confirmed at zero on the correct stroke rotate to your target timing position.
This is where most timing jobs go wrong and why many engines run at completely different timing than the builder believes.
The assumption: engine at 12 degrees, pump at zero, install pump, timing is correct at 12 degrees.
The reality: injection pump drive is not a solid connection. The pump sprocket has built-in timing adjustment range. Installing the pump finger tight – all three pump bolts and the French-threaded sprocket bolt – and assuming it is correct is wrong.
Skipping steps three through nine and tightening the pump at initial installation virtually guarantees the timing is not where you think it is.
Some builders run the pump timing at zero on the pump with the engine set at 10 to 14 degrees. The result is slightly more aggressive idle sound and character. The engine does not suffer any damage. This is a valid choice for builders who want a harder sounding idle.
The pump's internal timing device – a spring loaded mechanism in the sprocket that advances timing with RPM – also modifies the effective timing significantly during running. Setting a conservative idle timing does not mean the engine runs conservative timing at higher RPM.
Three years of running an OM606 at eight degrees timing without knowing it. The engine ran fine throughout. This is the best evidence that these engines tolerate timing variation well. Does running at 12 or 14 perform better? Yes. Does running at eight destroy anything? No.
Check your timing. Set it where you want it. Understand that reasonable variation from the specified setting is not the crisis the forums suggest.
Go check your timing. Bye!
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